Entry Two:  Removing Oxidization

These softer Alkyd paints that were used on older Volkswagen and Porsche vehicles oxidize very quickly if left unprotected. Oxidization occurs when these paints sit unprotected from the Sun's UV rays. Keeping your car in a garage or even washing and waxing it regularly is a good way to prevent it from happening.  Luckily, if your car is a solid color, they're single-stage so there isn't a thin clear-coat to peel off, so restoring them is fairly simple. Once restored, regular waxing will keeping them looking beautiful for years to come.

Unlike etchings and blemishes, you don't want to use any kind of sandpaper to remove oxidization. In this case, we are just wanting to remove as little of the paint as possible. So work backwards and don't start with your heaviest compound, instead try a cleaner wax.  These are designed as a one step process to remove old wax, sealants, road grime, and light swirls. They often contain abrasives, detergents, or sometimes even chemical solvents to clean the paint and leave it looking nice. In most cases they are strong enough to remove light oxidization.

However, oxidization can get pretty bad, and lets be honest, you wouldn't be reading this blog if any of the consumer stuff worked. 

My weapon of choice when things get difficult is 3M Perfect-it. 

  

3M Perfect-it System with clean terry cloths

Now, before you run out and buy the entire system, understand that compounds like this are required if you are wet sanding paint. However, with oxidization most people might just be happy with the shine left by Step 1. So it must be said that if you intend to buy the whole set, then this is a rather expensive way to remove oxidization and should be your last resort. A professional detail would be cheaper and perhaps more effective. That said, I realize that some of you would still prefer the DIY method, so lets get started!

As I mentioned in my previous post, perfect-it Rubbing compound can remove 1200 grit sandpaper. This means it can easily blast through the heaviest oxidization. While I have heavier cutting compounds, this one is hands down the best and most versatile. 

It doesn't really matter what compound you buy, but professional grade compounds are not available at Walmart. You will have to find an automotive paint shop or order it online. If you choose to go with another brand, make sure that whatever you're buying can remove 2000 grit sand scratches. A compound that can't remove 2000 grit might not be strong enough to remove heavy oxidization. Also, make sure the label says the compound can be worked by hand. These paints can burn easily when using a machine. 

Heavily oxidized VW Campmobile

When oxidization is this bad, you either need a pro or a serious rubbing compound. The owner had tried a few consumer products to no avail. 

Before and after

Step 1 wipes right though these rust stains

Step One: If you read my previous post, then you are doing the same exact steps, sans the wet-sanding. As you can see, I applied a dime sized amount of Step 1 to a terry cloth and worked it into the paint. Immediately the shine was restored.

If you are satisfied with this shine, then you can finish with a cleaner wax. However, if you have bought the other two steps, then proceed to step two.

Machine: Again, I don't recommend using a machine on this step. 

Shine restored!

Step Two: Rinse the panel and after it dries, gently work Step 2 into the paint with a clean terry cloth.  

Machine: If you are experienced with a machine, you can try using Step 2 with a polishing pad. This probably isn't the paint a novice should be learning on since it burns easily. In My previous post I gave some tips for polishing this type of paint with a machine. 

Incredible!

Step Three:  Rinse the panel a final time and once it dries apply Step 3 with a clean terry cloth. 

Machine: I've had fantastic results using a machine with Step 3 and a polishing pad. In my previous post I gave some tips for using a machine on this type of paint.

 All finished!

Wax: You only want to use a cleaner wax if you stopped after step 1. If you went to step 2 or 3 then a cleaner wax is going to the dull the shine back to step 1.  It will also strip any sealants and anything else you've applied. 

If you proceeded to step 2 or 3 then you will want a finishing wax. 

In either case, I have used Meguiar's NXT and Ulitmate wax with great success. There are probably better waxes, but they look great and have a sealant built in. 

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